By Cliff Jacobson

In complete colour, this illustrated how-to e-book covers the head ten most crucial knots and hitches, twenty-two diversifications, and 4 crucial splices and lashings. There are right-handed and left-handed directions and illustrations for tying every one knot, plus tips about procuring and retaining ropes and selecting the right kind knot for the duty handy. This consultant is simple to stick to and sufficiently small to hold outdoor.

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The knot is much more secure than a clove hitch, especially when the load is parallel to the spar. The hitch slides freely yet jams under load. However, it is less versatile and much inferior to the more powerful power cinch (trucker’s knot) explained on page 35. It’s best to complete the timber hitch with a half hitch near the hauling end to keep a long log from twisting.

This rescue technique—commonly set up with aluminum carabiners instead of rope loops—was popularized by the Nantahala Outdoor Center (a whitewater canoe and kayak school) as the “Z-drag,” because the rope pattern forms a lazy Z when viewed from overhead. I consider it the most useful hitch there is. The pilot was mightily impressed! The rig can be dropped in onethird the time if you end your knots with a quick-release loop. Form the quick-release feature by running the working end of the rope back through the completed knot—the same as making a “bow” when you tie your shoes.

Multiple coils (see S-knot, page 42) increase the security of the knot. (See Sknot, page 42). , both left- or right-handed). Half hitches are one of the most essential knots in macrame. For faster removal, complete the hitch with a quick-release loop (“slippery” end), as illustrated. This slick little hitch is well worth learning! The hitch won’t hold tension if you make it backwards! Recommended by DuPont for use with nylon fishing line. Be sure you run the first turn around the sack over the forefinger and the rest of the turns under it.

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